we managed a cab for dirt cheap, $5 a person for a hour long cab ride. but this was because 2 parisians wanted to tag along. they all went for the resort hotel, $70 a night would be a steal in the us, but i'm on a budget and i want to get the authentic experience. i realize that turning that phrase really means nothing. i'm a tourist and get treated like such, although a later entry, (hint, hint), will show you otherwise. the cab ride was interesting, hoi an is very near 2 or 3 beaches and the government and private companies have tried to erect many resort type complexes, but apparently the good ol' usa ain't the only place where buildings get shut down. massive lonely skeletons of buildings loom on the beachside, whether they have been there months or years, i have absolutely no clue, but they remain testimonials to the fact we are creating more than is desired, only then to try selling/filling empty buildings. anyway, too much philosophy.
we got to their resort, which i will admit looked nice. i wasn't concerned though and when i saw the hotel i was staying in for $18 a night, i was sure they would be jealous. i had a gigantic room, a decent bathroom, a/c, breakfast and a pool (theirs was bigger, of course), but other than one night i really didn't use it.
after settling into the hotel, the manager tried to get me to buy suits. apparently everyone in this town is "related" to someone who owns a shop. they try and try to convince you this enables you to get a deal, but the truth of the matter is they are getting commission. the commission is on everything, but i've come to understand that's the nature of vietnam. bargain low, maybe 50% and go from there. just don't be impolite and keep your hands ready for the draw.
hoi an, what can i say? it's a tourist's wet dream. being a peddler's city, suits, lamps, art, and ceramics are all obviously pointedly for the tourist. the interesting thing is: in america, we try to distinguish stores by how different and unique of goods are sold, and we would most definitely not, (or i wouldn't), open a shop next to a shop with the exact same merchandise. oh usa... you are so shortminded. in vietnam, you will walk down a street of shops all offering basically the same thing, they all are pretty similar in price and most of the difference lies in the customer service. thank god i'm not here for shopping... i hate shopping. needless to say, i had a difficult time in hoi an, despite it's charming night display of lamps and lit river statues. tourists are less likely to talk to strangers because they are either in their lovey bubble or in full on shop mode, (i will mention i did find a couple from seattle and a couple others (word play!) who were kind enough to let me crash their bubbles).
hoi an was absolutely boiling hot. i mean, so hot you start walking a minute outside after you've showered and pools of sweat are cascading down your face. not to mention your shirt feels like mummy wrap because your sweat has acted like a intensive bonding agent. so, after i buy the tourist package to see 5 sites, i see 3 pagodas and i'm dying. my feet feel as though they are going to blister. i ask where in god's great earth i can get a foot massage and am told it's $6 for 30 minutes, but it's a ways away. they offer to have a car pick me up. i think that sounds completely ridiculous, seeing as i'm only spending $6 and thank them and leave to walk through the market. at least it's got cover and shade.
while i'm baking like a french baguette, i manage to score some dragonfruit and munch on what i describe as a kiwi meets cucumber. while i'm stuffing my mouth, i ask again about a foot massage. after a couple of confused looks, a woman comes by and listens intently. she then walks me through a maze of the market and finally i get seated and told the masseuse will be there shortly. i was a little worried, but then again, there are so many people in the market that surely, i could just yelp a little if i get robbed... the masseuse, tu (?) shows up and offers me a massage for $10 and i say it was $6 with another company. she then concedes and offers a full body hour long massage for $10. she did an amazing job. apparently she was taught from her mother and is really good with deep tissue and my feet are as good as new. i thank her and head out to the hotel and shower.
where the night life is in hoi an? during the day streets are flooded with 'ghosts' shopping around and eating, but at night, they seem to vanish in that way ghosts do when mario is looking at them. well, i guess you can still partially see them even then. so after a good walk around, i settle at a restaurant near my place, mostly due to the amount of people eating there; more people eating and still alive, the better the restaurant. it starts to rain and a couple comes in from outside and sits behind me. after hearing english, i bulldoze my way into the conversation and they oblige a seat at their table. turns out they are from seattle! wedgewood represent! (their blog) they've started a year long trip and we start discussing all the usual things seattlites talk about, including politics, news and the awkward elephant in the room called
'work'. we walk around in search of an animated and interesting bar; ending up on the balcony overlooking the pavilion where live music is being performed. it just seems like everyone's asleep in their lover's arms with air conditioning on full blast. we part ways and i head back to the hotel to get some sleep before i take a big chance on an 'easy rider', (a chopper style bike with a guide who speaks decent english) named 'win', up to the illustrious marble mountains. in vietnam, bikes seem as dangerous as slapping a cobra in the face and calling it's mother a worm, so i don't have to mention i'm anxious.
until next time, dear reader.
if you should care to look at more pictures they are located here_____________________________
